Full crimp vs half crimp. I can drag mono pockets, but struggle front 2 half crimped.
Full crimp vs half crimp. The first and most dangerous crimping position is when your middle knuckles on each finger are >90 degrees. Execute these moves well, remembering quality over quantity. 8 ± 56. This will be the crimp you want to use for the majority of your climbs unless you are really pulling or a project. Nov 10, 2022 · Here, the half crimp and full crimp will typically result in the highest performances. Nov 18, 2007 · It appears I'm way weaker half crimped that dragging. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. I personally do half crimp but I do open hand on any pocket-y type holds. Dec 21, 2022 · Repeat this pattern with a full crimp and then finish with the half crimp, also for three sets of 3-6-9. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below! 🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS Hydration and With hangboarding, for example, you can train half crimps which are safer than full crimps and engage the muscle positions used in full crimp as well as open handed. Aug 28, 2022 · For most beginner to intermediate climbers, it is best to avoid hangboarding with full crimps. May 15, 2018 · In this video we show the three different ways you can using crimping to exert more pressure on a hold. All three are important in climbing, and if you want to be a good climber, you shouldn't neglect any of them. 8 ± 34. The extension of the pointer and the pinky allow for the relatively efficient use of the flexor muscles while half crimp position of the middle two fingers bring the palm a bit closer to the wall and Half crimp hangs should make your full crimp stronger too. Closed crimps are preferred over full crimps. After all, isn't the full crimp just a half crimp variation that relies on your finger structure more as opposed to forerm strength? Apr 7, 2024 · That's why it may be a good idea to train it separately in the half crimp. May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In the sport of rock climbing, the half. Mar 1, 2019 · The full crimp grip is one of 6 hand and finger positions used in rock climbing. The one-armed 20 mm lift uses deadlift form: Stand with your feet shoulder-width or wider. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly. I'm much better able to use front 3 half crimp and slots or other holds where there isn't enough space to get the high angle needed for full crimp. The second, much less risky than a full crimp, is the half crimp. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. Hence, the aim of this study was to determine how accurate climbers from different . , I automatically go into full crimp because am crimping down as hard as I can on every hold, when I could get away with using less effort and maintaining that 90 degree bend)? See full list on climbing. Oct 23, 2024 · The hyperextension further increases the climber’s ability to generate force. This version provides a much stronger grip than the aforementioned but will stress your fingers out more. If not then it'd be whatever crimp gives you the best purchase and allows you to generate the most power from a given hold. Sep 19, 2022 · Yeah, one-arming the 6-mils would be nice, but you should probably learn the difference between a full crimp and half crimp. Climbing moves to a hold to transfer weight off the arms. Mar 1, 2025 · Conclusion Grip mastery stands as a fundamental skill in bouldering. 360. 2 fingers - for non-wads probably just open hand. Full crimp: Good for small edges. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Introduction Many climbers believe that they are stronger in the crimp position than the open hand position, but the crimp is linked to higher pulley forces, increasing the risk of finger injuries. Crimping ain’t easy. As many have said, if a beginner even had more work capacity it's better to spend that work capacity on more climbing as opposed to hangboard or no hangs. Advantages: The half crimp provides a balance between strength and strain on the fingers, making it somewhat safer than the full crimp for prolonged use. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. The half crimp is Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Apr 5, 2018 · training the full crimp and half crimp is fine. The thumb should rest around two to five centimetres beneath your pointer finger, off-set, one to three centimetres from the pointer, depending on hand size. I have climbing partners with larger hands who seem almost afraid to crimp, going back and forth through deciding "not use it". Aim to position your fingers on the hold so that the weight is distributed through the pads of your fingers and not the tips. Jun 3, 2025 · Open hand vs. It does transfer to decently well but I think it depends on your finger lengths relative to one another too. Over-reliance on a full crimp grip by newer climbers, progressing climbing intensity too quickly or climbers who are climbing at a higher level where frequent full crimp gripping is required, all have the potential for developing this injury. now I have realized that developing half crimp We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. My problem comes from many years of injuries, where I have used the open hand position for safety. Meanwhile, bolt-on holds have evolved and are now far more user-friendly and generally suited to the half-crimp than the hideous sharp edges that we used to bone down on. Would be nice to match my current full crimp strength aka 5 sec hand on toms latice or 11 sec on BM currently at 10kilos asistance for half and 20 for open. The open hand or 3 finger drag, half crimp, and full crimp. Anyone who has switched from 20mm to 10mm or even less, around what %bw on 20mm do you think is good to switch at? Here you will find an overview about different crimp shapes. Progressive Overload: Gradually increase the difficulty of your hangs. Square Some prefer a square crimping shape because when they insert the crimped wire into a terminal block, it gives them four solid sides on which to screw the set screw down on. Mar 30, 2024 · Grip Types: Focus on half-crimp and full-crimp grips. Feb 24, 2023 · While grip position may vary based on your goals, to protect against injury, train the half-crimp/semi-crimp position—without your thumb (right photo). I'd actually say small, thin pinches are one of my strengths, as my thumbs are very strong compared to my fingers. Full Crimp Vs Half Crimp. Unsubscribe at any time. Reply reply More repliesMore replies EatThaatKetchup • Apr 18, 2025 · 3,041 likes, 10 comments - latticetraining on April 17, 2025: "Power on steep terrain: Drag vs. Square crimpers create a square-shaped crimp. Intense campus boarding on smaller rungs can also play a role, or simply subjecting your fingers to excessive repetitive forces on the wall. I think half crimp seems to require the most actual strength (whereas open handed relies heavily on skin friction and connective tissue strength), and so I think if you're training strength half-crimp gets you the most bang for your buck. Furthermore, the way the force is produced seems crucial. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how accurate climbers could assess their maximal finger flexor strength in half-crimp and open hand positions. Full crimp - Similar to a half crimp, but the DIP is hyperextended with the help of the thumb pressing down on the distal phalanx. Half Crimp Grip Position: The half crimp has the fingers bent slightly less than in a full crimp. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. If you'd keep your wrist straight while crimping, it experiences a small bending moment which you need to resist. While it doesn’t provide as much power as a full crimp, it’s a more sustainable grip for technical climbs. My default grip on the wall is usually a mixture of open crimp (4 fingers on with 3/4 hyperextended), and half-crimp (all 4 hyperextended). First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. Given the huge discrepancy between my half-crimp and closed crimp, what is a suitable (and safe) way to train the closed crimp? For reference, I also have a super short pinky, so adding the thumb would put extra strain on my wrists, as I have to torque my wrist CW to compensate. Half crimp: Used on medium sized crimps and small crimps if you are not strong enough yet. There are three basic types: the open crimp, the full crimp, and the three-finger grip. Four finger half crimp 2. 📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta. From what I understand from the training blogs, articles, podcasts, etc. I tend to use half or sometimes full crimps for 'hard' edges and positions, then go open drag to rest or do easier moves. com Oct 15, 2021 · In a half crimp, your thumb presses naturally against the side of your index finger. Do you think this indicates that I may be overgripping a lot of holds, when a simple half crimp would suffice (i. Learn all about how to do it and how to avoid crimping injuries. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. (Like a full crimp without the thumb. May 1, 2024 · To perform a full-crimp, perform a half-crimp, and then wrap the thumb on top of the index finger. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. Crimps are small climbing holds and there are a few different types of crimp grip: open crimp, half crimp, and full crimp. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Carla Zihlmann1, Paul Ritsche2, Andri Feldmann3, Lisa Reissner4, Martin Keller2, Peter Wolf*1 Download scientific diagram | (A,B) Left to right. Understanding the difference between Full Crimp and Half Crimp can help you achieve better results in the kitchen and elevate your cooking skills. Pro help: I'm going to see an ortho next week and get imaging. Full crimping maximizes your contact with the hold, but it places enormous stress on your tendons. Id say my grip is almost purely open hand or half crimp, most common a sort of 80% half crimp where index a a little shy of 90° and my ring and middle are about or slightly over Jan 4, 2024 · In today's Tips & Tricks episode, we are going to look at different types of crimp grips. It involves climbers wrapping the thumb over the index fingers and curling the fingers into a smaller joint angle. He claims that you should rather train the half crimp, as the half crimp will make your chisel grip stronger as well, but the chisel grip will not make your half crimp grip stronger. Full crimping and more aggressive angles in DIP/PIP joints puts a bit more pressure on the pulleys compared to open hand or strick half crimp. May 10, 2022 · The majority of new climbers don’t see the point in full-crimping, and many ask whether they should bother to use this grip seeing as the half-crimp feels stronger and more comfortable. If you can't deadhang in a half crimp without having your hand open up then take weight off with a pulley so you can stay in the position and train it. The basic grips include full crimp, pinch, sloper, crimp, pocket, undercling, sidepull, and gaston – each serving specific purposes on the wall. Illustration of the slope (a), half crimp (b) and full crimp (c) grip techniques used during rock-climbing. Specificity 2. When it comes to cooking, the terms Full Crimp and Half Crimp may sound unfamiliar to many home cooks. Curious lack of other symptoms: Half crimp or full crimp position has no pain while pulling on my left hand. 但与 Full Crimp 和 Half Crimp 相比，Open Hand 虽然抓握力最弱，但却是最省力，同时，也是对关节压力最小的抓点方法。 非常推荐新手练习搭点，一来入门的时候不会碰到太小的 Crimp 点，二来可以慢慢建立起手指力量，再者养成好的抓点习惯，避免受伤。 A half crimp position is simply a crimp with the palm flat or “open”. 5 vs. ) Nov 9, 2021 · In reply to Wooj: If your strong enough to drag every small edge on any angle of wall then it really would be personal choice. Jan 24, 2016 · Für Kletteranfänger soll hier eine kurze Übersicht über die verschiedenen Möglichkeiten des Greifens gegeben werden. The most open position—often referred to as a “drag”—is extremely useful for resting on large positive holds where the high contact surface with the hold allows for frictional assistance. Crimp encompasses three different grip types– open hand or half crimp, closed crimp, and full crimp. Full Crimp Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. In this weeks video, @ShaunaCoxseyClimber and Hannah Morris talk all things finger strength and crimp technique on at the newly opened @theclimbinghangaruk i Just as an aside, I hardly ever use a full closed crimp and I am significantly weaker with it compared to open hand/half crimp. Jul 26, 2021 · No pain while loading in the half or full crimp position A pulley Injury will have: The most pain while loading in the full crimp and half crimp positions Only mild pain with resisted flexion at the PIP joint. Jan 5, 2025 · Half crimp: more muscle contraction, more tiring, but can vary angle of hand to hold without changing angle of tips on the hold by bending fingers. The full crimp is a bit too high-risk to train on a fingerboard, and pinch strength is best trained on a system wall or with a lifting block. Is this normal? Am I best training half crimped, open, or both? I feel like The crimp applies a lot more force to the hold, you can keep your hips much further into the wall and get far better extension and control in your reach to the next hold. Both the half crimp and full crimp feel quite natural to me, especially when on real rock. I can drag mono pockets, but struggle front 2 half crimped. Remember, a full crimp puts ~31% more force on your tendons, making you more prone to debilitating injury. 0 N) (2). Whereas half crimp is all about. The difference between a half crimp and full crimp is our thumb positioning. Climbers are able to deliver a higher level of force with a full crimp compared with a half crimp (439. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: 😍 Instagram I recently noticed my open-3 drag is much weaker than my half crimpabout 45 lbs weaker. The full-crimp hand position should be reserved for those difficult crimp sequences where maximum stability is required. Just recently started training closed crimps. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. This creates a larger angle, which allows you to actively pull on the grip when moving through a wider range of motion (see image). Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 Jul 16, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. You can demo this by grabbing an edge close I basically have the same problem as you, and yes I have found that putting in a solid cycle (6-8 weeks) of BW repeaters (10 s on/5 s offx6 3 min rest x4) focusing on maintaining proper half crimp form is an excellent way to work into max hangs. Improving your crimping skills is an achievable goal for climbers at every level. Crimping is commonly broken into three different grip types based on the angle of your fingers and the location of your thumbs called full, half and open crimp. The half-crimp grip, where your fingers are bent at about 90 degrees at the first knuckle without thumb overwrap, is especially important for building strength safely. Closed Crimp vs. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. from publication: Clinical management of finger joint Half crimp will improve your full crimp strength. The straight pointer finger one is a open hand crimp, half crimp is when all your fingers are at 90 degrees at the second knuckle. Mid 2 I can drag the small pockets pretty comfortably but half crimp is near maximal effort. We won't send you spam. Jan 26, 2023 · Some crimping positions are safer than others. Many people worry that not training full crimps on the hangboard will limit their strength progression. Full crimp is trained second to ensure you’re warmed up for it. Of course your full crimp is a lot stronger, you have the mechanical advantage of the thumb involved. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. I don’t train the full crimp just for injury prevention, but the other two are important to train. Climbers build finger strength through regular practice with these grip types (typically using hangboards or campus boards). The half crimp grip. Jul 16, 2025 · Crimps When I first started rock climbing, I thought that holding on to a crimp would be an impossible task. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open For context I climb around V7 outside, train in the gym 3 days per week, usually one day a week of max hangs as well. The half crimp allows you to generate more power than the open-hand grip while still reducing the stress on your joints compared to the full crimp. Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. The first joint is less sharply bent, and the thumb usually doesn’t wrap over the index finger. Jan 4, 2024 · More specifically, crimping in climbing is one of many gripping techniques climbers use to hold especially small crimps. No pain while resting. The correlations with route grades were similar. I'm thinking 3 fingers - good to work both positions, especially for front 3. With the low-pain criteria, we have Stage 1, which is one set of four reps, seven seconds on and three seconds off, three minutes’ rest between sets, two times per week, and you use different holds—an open hand, a half crimp, and a three-finger pocket. None to minimal pain while flexing at the DIP joint (depending on the location of the pulley injury) Comparison of half crimp type, large (towards open hand) or small (towards full crimp) Three hold types are typically discussed in the literature: the open hand (slope), the half crimp (fingers at 90 degrees at the second joint), or full crimp (with thumb lock off). hold causing the knee to go into flexion. Mar 27, 2019 · The answer is that many people (myself included) got injured once too often from full-crimping and re-trained themselves to rely more on the half-crimp. Dec 17, 2021 · If you are slipping from half-crimp into open-hand during your fingerboard routine, you likely require a larger edge, or longer rest between reps or sets. I'm thinking this might be beneficial, my index definitely is a weak link in half crimps. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. It's a great option for intermediate-sized holds where you need a bit more grip but don't want to go all-in on the full crimp. Repeated use of either grip is physically taxing and can lead to serious hand and wrist injuries. Always try an open crimp first and focus on your footwork before resorting to a half of full Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than. I can do 25 pullups with no pain too. Types of Crimp Grips When talking about grip positions, “crimp” is actually an umbrella term. From my own experience, half crimp and full crimp strength does not fully translate; what made the full crimp feel very comfortable for me was getting comfy hanging on 8mm with full crimp and climbing on techy granite stuff with tiny holds where you have to full crimp. Feb 9, 2020 · Description: In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. You will perform one (entry-level) to three (advanced) sets of repeaters with each grip position. Oct 6, 2024 · The half crimp is a much more natural hand position, making it ideal for longer climbing sessions and preventing finger injuries. Many sources don't pay significant attention to the position of the index finger, while others claim that it's critical for your progress. Anyone else have this experience? A half crimp also doesn't use the thumb, so it seems to be best to compare to. Jan 29, 2019 · Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Or do people tend to focus on just one grip type? Half crimping for me seems to get my half crimp better, but oddly I have not seen it transfer to full crimp. The full crimp grip. However, these two techniques actually play a crucial role in how you handle your ingredients and prepare your dishes. does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? Sep 27, 2024 · With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. Due to the higher forces put through the joints and pulleys it should be trained via climbing, instead of on a fingerboard – unless you are very experienced, with a suitable training history. I think it's definitely worth training your half crimp strength to bring it up to the same level as your full crimp. Aug 25, 2019 · Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. In the mean time, I won't be climbing. Oct 31, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. Mar 16, 2005 · The main lesson was that Haydn is weaker than he should be at half crimping and dragging hence: haydn jones said: 4. The half crimp is It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Carla Zihlmann1, Paul Ritsche2, Andri Feldmann3, Lisa Reissner4, Martin Keller2, Peter Wolf1 Nov 14, 2022 · The half crimp and full crimp create much more of this friction than open handed positions, so frequent crimping is the obvious culprit. I spent the last 40 days forcing myself to get better at the half and open crimp to improve my te Dec 4, 2020 · The half-crimp offers the climber greater leverage when they are pulling hard. This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. That means: More force Longer time to apply force Not full-crimping but definitely more crimped than on a 20mm, where I notice sometimes I'm kinda between a half crimp and "chisel crimp". Advanced climbers can do a second set for each half- and open-crimp grips, plus one or two additional sets that target one- and/or two-finger pockets. Oct 29, 2020 · Early climbing research has shown that the full crimp position puts the most stress (or force) through your pulleys and tendons when compared to other standard grips like half crimp and open hand. Feb 2, 2025 · Ultimately, you should only use the half crimp and the full crimp when you need a quick boost for speed and strength. Half Crimp vs. The slope grip is characterised by a flexion of the finger joints. e. Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used wheneverpossible. In a full crimp, you also use your thumb, but this position puts a high amount of stress on the annular ligaments. May 28, 2018 · 3 types of Grip Technique Open crimp: Used on all crimp sizes and especially when the edge of the crimp is rounded. There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: Understanding the differences between these grips is vital for improving your. Some grip types are more “active” than others. Open hand vs. I can climb a bit more volume without my finger joints getting stressed since I'm not relying on using full crimp for every hard move. If you watch Paul Robinson climb you'll see he often latches holes in a chisel grip (efficient and strong to hang on) and then readjusts to a half, or much more often full crimp, to then pull so he can still push down on the hold as he gets above it. I used to full crimp everything, but now, after years of strict half-crimped training, I find I never full-crimp whilst training or climbing inside, and only ever full-crimp occasionally outside. If that's true, then yes, I'd prefer to train the correct half crimp grip. We finish with half crimp because it is the strongest position. The full-crimp is a powerful and aggressive grip position, that allows a climber to lock down on even the smallest of edges. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), your elbow can travel higher (increased angle) without losing contact. Crimp holds are divided into three different types: full crimp, half crimp, and open hand. Some people even wrap their thumb over the top of each finger while crimping. As a result, it’s easy to injure yourself with the half crimp if you overuse it. And sure, maximum finger recruitment is something you want, but if you look like a floppy noodle on the wall your finger strength doesn’t matter. This is probably the most difficult position for people who are very strong full crimpers to achieve. The safest way of holding crimps and thus should be the only way for beginners to hold crimps. Aug 15, 2017 · To full crimp, place as if you are going to half crimp but wrap the thumb over top and bring the palm in toward the hold slightly. voll aufgestellt, full crimpaufgestellt, crimphalb offen, half openOffen (middle… Half crimp - The PIP is flexed to 90 degrees and DIP in full extension. Do this session once more during the week. A half crimp is the preferred crimp because it spreads the load more evenly between the tendons and pulleys. 6 N), whereas no difference has been found between the slope crimp and the half crimp (350. Aim to train in the open-hand or half-crimp position, as it will improve your strength and increase the force you can generate when you engage the full-crimp. training half crimps is effective at targeting the muscles used for open hand as well as full crimp positions with one exercise. No swelling. I'm gonna train up this grip, hopefully it will improve my climbing. This position is often misidentified: climbers often claim they are in a half crimp when they are actually in a full crimp minus the thumb. This is not true. Nov 10, 2024 · Crimping was one of my major strengths, let me get my fingers on something i could pull through on a half crimp now I can’t even hold my body weight on half crimp but I can do 5 pull ups on 3 finger drag. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. Half/full crimping is generally a lot more helpful when moving off a hold and/or locking off because it allows for a more secure grip on the hold but any move made with a half crimp can be made with an open hand crimp too. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. Climbers don’t simply get injured from full crimping; they get injured because they aren’t listening to their bodies. com IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES: 👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. That is known as the full crimp. When to Use Each Crimp: There are specific applications for when to use each crimp when climbing, so you should test them out when you’re climbing. . I have trouble hanging body weight with closed crimp on 10mm, but can do 8mm + 20% BW on an 8mm with a half crimp. Crimp 💥 If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. No inflammation. For (full) crimp, the wrist is in an angle if you hang straight under your fingertips. In other words, the half-crimp is virtually a one-stop shop for grip training. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) significantly stronger in open crimp vs half crimp, better to focus on half crimp? started max weight hangs, my open crimp on 20mm is body weight + 50% for close to 8 sec, but half crimp i can only hang with +20% ish. Initially, focus on training the half-crimp and open-crimp grips—one set each. I am a professional musician and So you have one person practicing the full hand crimp too often and getting injured, and another person who is mistakenly identifying their closed hand crimp as full and doing fine. It's hard to say exactly why that is. Stage 2 uses the same parameters but now adds the half-crimp grip. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. In a full crimp, you do everything you would in a half crimp but then press your thumb down on the fingernail of your index finger, locking it in place. I'm wondering, what is the weight differential between your half crimp and your 3-finger drag? In order of ascending power/strength: Open hand (fingers are greater than 90 degrees from the palm) Half crimp (around 90 degrees, very little or no thumb recruitment) Full crimp (less than 90 degrees, possible thumb wrap for even more power) As for why full crimp is strongest, the more you close your hand, the more forearm muscle you're recruiting. Depelop my open handed/half crimp strength. For instance, if someone had weak "half crimp" it would be better to just add a few crimp climbs to their progression rather than go straight to hangboard because of the factors mentioned above. Important Tip: Crimp holds primarily engage the fingertips, so proper finger placement is crucial. Nov 21, 2022 · In addition to the half-crimp and open-crimp grips, select a few others such as open hand, two-finger pocket “first team” (middle pair), two-finger pocket “second team” (inside pair), wide pinch and narrow pinch. Often after I fall off a boulder or a route, I realize that I wasn't crimping as I was trying the final move. Half Crimp In a half crimp, the length of your fingers on the hold form a full bend in relation with the tips of your fingers resting on the edge of the hold but the thumb is placed to the side of the grip and isn’t used to apply pressure on the top. May 29, 2019 · HALF CRIMP A half crimp is bending your middle knuckle 90 degrees and increasing contact with the hold. Limit yourself to a maximum of six sets. Jun 22, 2024 · The internet did not enjoy watching me full crimp pinches. Higher risk than drag positions. 6 ± 55. Dec 24, 2012 · Just curious if folks hang 3 and 2 fingers half crimped, or if you guys switch over to open handed dragging for those. Nov 9, 2022 · Front 3 half crimp: Good for big moves (pinkie doesn’t catch) and smaller width edges. This is why most climbers use either a half crimp or full crimp when climbing. Three finger drag 3. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. Related: Injury Prevention Quick Tip—Preventing and Strengthening Against Shoulder Impingement Recommended Exercise: Child’s Pose Finger Lifts Perform this exercise to improve motor coordination and strengthen the individual finger extensors in a weight-bearing position. Between half-crimping, pinch-y climbing, and double-overhand deadlifting in past years, pinches have just never given me trouble. Hexagon The hexagonal crimping shape is the closest to a round shape, which can help when working in tight spaces. To summarize, the importance of using the strict half crimp form while Arm-Lifting and hangboarding is still debatable. A full crimp whould definitly be stronger. Partly, it's just hand size and geometry. May 2, 2018 · The open-hand grip. When to use the half crimp: On moderately small holds that don’t require maximum power. Half and full crimp with the red indicating the major stress regions of each type of crimp. I've climbed a maximum of a couple v10s, typically though I'm in the v8-9 range, and I always considered half-crimp strength one of my strengths, mainly going off lattice benchmarks and subjectively on crimpy climbs. Too much chance for injury doing half crimp I've realized that I more or less never use 3FD in actual climbing, though I have begun training it on the hangboard in addition to half-crimp. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. They May 30, 2007 · The half-crimp will build strength for open-handing and full-crimping (to a limited degree) whereas the other grips are exclusive to themselves. The main difference between half crimp and full crimp is the placement and use of your thumb. This closes the hand shape, enabling the climber to generate more force when crimping. evhzxqaqipxsvviqmduykpmjqmbsxltopmshirjblttklipnxkxfnqr
